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    Summary

    It’s November, not quite winter, so the is water rough. And this is what they live for, the slightly cooler, rougher waters, early mornings, and for Natasha (and most of the rest of the island), taking days off work in favor of spending them at the Pipeline. It’s salt and sand and lava rock, board wax and resin and sunscreen, and even though he ended up here by chance, he really doesn’t want to live anywhere else.

    Language:
    English
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